Belmont Battlefield & Columbus-Belmont State Park: Following Grant’s First Civil War Battle

On this trip, we visited two Civil War sites connected by one of the earliest battles of General Ulysses S. Grant’s military career. Our journey first took us to Belmont Battlefield in Missouri, where Grant launched his attack across the Mississippi River from Cairo, Illinois. We then traveled to Columbus-Belmont State Park in Kentucky, where Confederate forces maintained one of the strongest fortifications along the Mississippi River.

Together, these two locations help tell the story of the Battle of Belmont, fought on November 7, 1861, and provide a better understanding of how important control of the Mississippi River was during the Civil War.

About the Battle of Belmont

The Battle of Belmont was the first major combat test for Brigadier General Ulysses S. Grant. While the battle ended without a clear victor, it gave Grant valuable battlefield experience and helped shape the campaigns that followed.

Why Belmont Was Important

Belmont was a small settlement in southeastern Missouri located directly across the Mississippi River from the heavily fortified Confederate position at Columbus, Kentucky.

At the time, Confederate forces under General Leonidas Polk controlled the high bluffs overlooking the river, threatening Union movement and commerce along one of the nation’s most important waterways.

Grant launched an expedition from Cairo, Illinois, with approximately 3,000 soldiers. His goal was to attack the Confederate camp at Belmont, destroy supplies, and distract Confederate troops from other operations taking place in the Western Theater.

The Battle Begins

Grant’s Landing

On the morning of November 7, 1861, Grant’s force landed at Hunter’s Farm, roughly three miles north of Belmont.

The Union soldiers marched south through the river bottoms and soon engaged Confederate defenders protecting Camp Johnson.

Capturing Camp Johnson

After intense fighting, Union forces successfully pushed the Confederates back and captured the camp.

With victory seemingly secured, many Union soldiers began celebrating and collecting souvenirs from the captured camp. Concerned about losing control of his men, Grant ordered parts of the camp burned.

Unfortunately, several wounded Confederate soldiers who had been left behind were unable to escape the flames.

Confederate Reinforcements Arrive

General Polk witnessed the fighting from the heights at Columbus and quickly responded.

Fresh Confederate troops crossed the Mississippi River while heavy artillery from the Kentucky bluffs opened fire on Grant’s men below.

Soon the Union force found itself under pressure from multiple directions.

Grant ordered a fighting withdrawal back toward the river landing.

Despite intense enemy fire, Union troops successfully reached their transports and escaped back to Cairo.

Casualties and Significance

Both sides suffered similar losses during the battle.

Union Losses

• 120 killed
• 383 wounded
• 104 captured or missing

Confederate Losses

• 105 killed
• 419 wounded
• 106 captured or missing

Why the Battle Matters

Both armies claimed victory.

The Confederates argued they had driven Grant from the battlefield. Grant considered the operation successful because he accomplished his primary objective of disrupting Confederate activity and destroying Camp Johnson.

While militarily inconclusive, the battle proved important because it gave Grant valuable experience commanding large numbers of troops under combat conditions. Lessons learned at Belmont would later help him during the successful campaigns against Fort Henry and Fort Donelson.

Visiting Belmont Battlefield in Missouri

Today, Belmont Battlefield is a quiet location hidden deep within the Mississippi River bottoms.

When we arrived, we found only a small parking area and historical markers explaining what happened here more than 160 years ago.

Standing in the river bottoms, it is difficult to imagine thousands of soldiers fighting across these fields while artillery thundered from the Kentucky bluffs on the opposite side of the river.

The site is simple, but for Civil War enthusiasts it offers a chance to stand where Grant commanded one of the first battles of his military career.

Visiting Columbus-Belmont State Park in Kentucky

After leaving Belmont, we drove approximately an hour around to Kentucky and visited Columbus-Belmont State Park.

This location sits atop the high bluffs where General Leonidas Polk built one of the Confederacy’s strongest river defenses.

A Confederate Stronghold

The Confederates fortified these cliffs with approximately 140 cannons overlooking the Mississippi River.

Walking through the preserved earthworks today gives visitors a sense of just how formidable these defenses once appeared to Union commanders.

Many of the trenches and artillery positions remain visible and in some places are over ten feet deep.

The Famous River Chain

One of the most interesting displays at the park is the massive anchor and chain that once stretched across the Mississippi River.

The Confederates hoped this barrier would help prevent Union vessels from moving freely along the river.

Museum and Civil War History

The park also features a small museum housed in a historic building that served as a hospital during the Civil War.

Visitors can watch a short film explaining the Battle of Belmont and the strategic importance of Columbus during the war.

Although Grant never captured the fortifications directly, his later victories in Tennessee forced Confederate troops to abandon Columbus, allowing Union forces to occupy the position without a major battle.

Lunch at the Park

One surprise during our visit was the food available at the park.

We had been told to try the famous Quickie Dogs and decided to stop for lunch before continuing our trip.

The recommendation was well worth it. The Quickie Dogs were excellent and made a great meal while overlooking the Mississippi River.

Things to Know Before You Visit

Belmont Battlefield (Missouri)

• Located deep in the Mississippi River bottoms
• Roads may be affected by flooding during high river levels
• Paved roads lead to the site
• Small parking area
• No restrooms available
• Allow 20–30 minutes for a visit

Columbus-Belmont State Park (Kentucky)

• Free admission
• Large parking areas
• Picnic facilities available
• Small museum on-site
• Food concessions available during operating periods
• Camping available
• Excellent views of the Mississippi River
• Gates close at dark

Nearby Places to Explore

Illinois Iron Furnace Historic Site in Southern Illinois

Visit the Illinois Iron Furnace Historic Site in Southern Illinois, a hidden gem in Shawnee National Forest with Civil War history and scenic surroundings.

Final Thoughts

Belmont Battlefield and Columbus-Belmont State Park tell two sides of the same story. One shows where Grant launched his attack in the Mississippi River bottoms, while the other reveals the impressive Confederate defenses that dominated the river from the Kentucky bluffs.

Neither location is as famous as Shiloh or Gettysburg, but together they help explain how the struggle for control of the Mississippi River shaped the Civil War. For anyone interested in the Western Theater, Grant’s early campaigns, or river warfare, both sites are worth adding to your travel list

Check out our video